Category Archives: Tutorial

How To: Stacked Single Crochet (STSC) Stitch

The Stacked Single Crochet (STSC) is mainly used as a stand-in for the first double crochet stitch in a row and eliminates the need for a starting chain. It looks nice, especially when worked into as you are creating a border or seaming two panels of crochet together. Here’s how to make the stitch!

Note: I crochet lefthanded, so the pictures reflect that. However, you can hover your mouse over the pictures and they will flip for you righthanded crocheters out there. ;)

1.) do not ch at beginning of row. Working into first st of previous row, yo and pull loop through.

2.) yo again and pull through both loops on hook.

3.) yo and pull loop though loop marked by arrow in 2.

4.) you and pull through both loops on hook. This completes STSC.

Free Pattern: Retro-Inspired Crochet Headband

This pattern was inspired by necessity, as I wanted a cute way to cover up my undercut during cold winter months on days when I wear my hair up. But of course, you don’t have to have an undercut to wear this headband.

It’s a pretty simple crochet pattern, and involves just a little simple sewing for the finishing touches.

fingering weight yarn (I used Woolike, which is an acrylic/nylon blend since I have quite a bit in my stash that I’m trying to use up, but I don’t know if I’d necessarily recommend it, as it tangles and knots on itself a lot withing the skein which is a huge pain, but it has a good bit of stretch and nice drape, which works well for a headband)
G/6-4.25mm hook
small darning needle
3 in. by 1 in. piece of leather (or material of choice)
leather punch
sewing thread
sewing needle

Stitches Used: (US terms)
Foundation Single Crochet (FSC): see tutorial here
single crochet (sc)
double crochet (dc)

Finished headband should measure approximately 20 inches circumference and 6 1/2 inches wide. Size can be adjusted by adding or subtracting FSC stitches and rows. (Note: Headband should have a bit of a snug fit, to help it stay in place when worn. Keep this in mind when adjusting size.)

FSC: 94 stitches, turn
Rows 1-41: (For Row 1: holding FSC row with “v’s” on bottom and ch side on top, work into FSC as seen in FSC tutorial linked above. This gives the headband an instant finished edge) *ch 1, 1 sc in first st, 1 dc in next st*, repeat * to end of row, turn

Row 42: ch 1, 1 sc in each st. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Seam ends together using method of choice (whipstitch, mattress stitch, single crochet, etc), using yarn.

Cut a small piece of yarn, about 8-10 inches long. Scrunch seam of headband and tie piece of yarn around it using a double knot to hold in place. Tie several times to make secure. Cut/weave in any ends.

Cut a piece of leather 3 inches by 1 1/4 inches. Use a leather punch to make holes along short sides of leather, about a centimeter from the edge. I made 4 holes along each side. (Be sure to adjust leather size if adjusting headband size). You can also substitute another material if you don’t want to use leather. Wrap leather around scrunched part of headband and line up punched ends, making sure ends meet on inside of headband, so they will be hidden when headband is worn. Use sewing thread and needle to sew sew leather ends together, working back and forth several times to secure.

And you’re finished!

If you have any questions, just ask. Please credit Tales of Butterflies and myself, Mindy Waters, for any finished headbands. Please do not reproduce, copy, or sell this written pattern, just link back here. Thank you!

How To: Foundation Single Crochet (FSC) Stitch

I’ve talked about the Foundation Single Crochet stitch several times on the blog, and I use it in pretty much all of my patterns. The main benefit to using it over a simple starting chain stitch row is that it has stretch, which is nice for hats, headbands, clothing, etc.

I’m finally sharing my own tutorial for it today. It’s not that hard, so give it a try!

Note: I crochet lefthanded, so the pictures reflect that. However, you can hover your mouse over the pictures and they will flip for you righthanded crocheters out there. ;)

1.) ch 2

2.) yo, pull up loop in 2nd ch from hook. There should now be 2 loops on hook.

3.) yo and pull through 1st loop on hook.

4.) yo and pull through both loops on hook. This completes 1 stitch. Next stitch will be worked in loop marked by arrow.

5.) yo and pull loop through space marked by arrow in step 4. Repeat from step 3 onward until desired amount of stitches is complete.


When I use FSC, as in most of my patterns, after completing the FSC row, I turn it so that the “v’s” are on the bottom and work the next row over the ch stitch side into the space right above the “v’s.” (As show in the above picture.) This gives you an immediate finished edge and looks tidier, in my opinion.

Crochet Crowns, Two Free Patterns



I recently designed a couple little crochet crowns for my friends’ baby, and I thought I’d share the patterns here for you. These are a great project for a beginner crocheter looking to stretch their skills, as they let you play around with a couple stitch patterns and possibly learn some new techniques, and also an easy but satisfying project for more experienced crocheters.


While the starting foundation chain counts given are for (and crowns pictured are in) a small adult size, you can adjust the crown size by adding or subtracting pattern repeats. Starting chain count suggestions are given at the beginning of each pattern, but you can adjust the size to your personal needs.

Stitches used: foundation single crochet (see stitch tutorial here), slip stitch, single crochet, double crochet, triple crochet, chain

Please do not reproduce or sell these patterns, as they are my property. These crowns have gotten a lot of attention, and I’ve been touched by so many of the stories! If you would like to sell your finished crowns, please ask/let me know first (It’s nice to know that people enjoy the pattern!), and give credit for the design to Waters Wares or me, Mindy Waters, that is all I ask. Thanks a bunch! And feel free to make and gift as many as you like!

Hook Size: F/5 – 3.75mmish
Yarn: Medium weight, No. 4


Estimated starting chain counts – Baby: 50 stitches, Toddler/Child: 60 stitches, Adult: 70/80 stitches

Row 1: FSC 70 stitches, join with sl st into 1st ch
Row 2: working into ch spaces of FSC, 1 sc in each stitch around, join with sl st into first sc
Row 3: working into back loops only, *skip 2 stitches, then work 3 dc, 1 trc, 3 dc into same stitch, skip 2 stitches, 1 sc in next 5 stitches* repeat around. Join into first dc
Row 4: working into back loops only, *1 sc in each dc, sc into top of trc, ch 3, sl st into front loop of sc just worked, 1 sc in each dc, 1 sc in next 2 stitches, 1 sc in next stitch, ch 3, sl st into sc just worked, 1 sc in next 2 stitches repeat around. Join into first sc. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Starch if desired.



Estimated starting chain counts – Baby: 50 stitches, Toddler/Child: 60 stitches, Adult: 70/80 stitches

Row 1: FSC 70 stitches, join with sl st into first ch
Row 2: working into ch spaces of FSC, 1 sc in each stitch around, join with sl st into first sc
Row 3: working into back loops only, *skip 2 stitches, then work 3 dc, 1 trc, 1 ch, 1 trc, 3 dc into same stitch, skip 2 stitches, sl st into next stitch, skip 1 stitch, then work 2 dc, 1 trc, 2 dc into same stitch, skip 1 stitch, sl st into next stitch* repeat around. Join into first dc.
Row 4: ch 3, *work 3 dc, 1 trc, 3 dc, into ch space of 1st point, 1 trc into sl st space of previous row, ch 2, 1 sc into top of trc of point below, ch 2, trc into sl st space of previous row* repeat around. Join into third ch of starting ch 3.
Row 5: working into back loops only, *1 sl st in each dc, ch 3, sl st into trc, ch 5, sl st into same trc, ch 3, 1 sl st in each dc, 1 sl st in trc, 1 sl st in each ch, sl st into sc, ch 3, sl st into same sc, 1 sl st in each ch, 1 sl st in trc* repeat around. Join into first sl st. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Starch if desired.

If you get confused at any point with either pattern, just comment below or message me, and I’ll do my best to help you out!

Tutorial: Crochet And Leather Drawstring Pouch

pouch tutorial 1

Here’s the tutorial I promised a while back for the little drawstring pouches. These are pretty simple to make, so feel free to give it a try and experiment with different yarns and techniques.

(Sorry some of the pictures are a bit blurred, I have a new camera and I’m still getting used to it.)

Supplies: (pictured above)

– leather (or suede, canvas, or any thicker fabric would do)
– scrap yarn, I’m using a soft worsted weight
– suede lace (for the drawstring, but you could use any type of cord or even a length of crochet chain)
– a size E/4-3.50mm crochet hook
– scissors
– something to punch your leather with, I’m using a leather punch, but an awl or even using needles of bigger and bigger size to puncture and widen the holes would work, too
– a darning needle
– something to mark your leather with, I used a Sharpie of similar color to the leather, since the marking won’t be seen on the outside of the finished pouch, but a fabric pencil would work, too
– a template, if you plan to make more than one of these

All you need to know crochetwise for this project is how to slip stitch, chain stitch, single crochet, and possibly how to switch colors (I provide a link and a few tips on that below if it’s new for you). If you’re wanting to experiment with combining crochet and other materials, this project is a great way to get started.

Note: I crochet lefthanded, so that’s what’s shown in the pictures, however, if you let your mouse hover over the crochet pictures below they will flip so that righthanders can follow along easily.

To make the pouch base, I simply traced around the bottom of a water bottle. The diameter of my circle is 7 centimeters. Mark 20 holes around the edge of your circle, making sure to not get too close to the edge so the holes don’t rip open. I leave just under a centimeter of space between each hole and the edge of the circle. Since I’m making more than one of these, I made a template from a piece of cardstock. I’m tracing it onto the back of my leather here using a Sharpie, and also using it to mark where the holes will need to be punched.

I have a manual leather punch that I use to make the holes. It has interchangable hole sizes, but I will say that not all of them work so well. I knew this might be the case when I bought this thanks to reviews online, but for my purposes it works well enough. You can find these at Michael’s and Hobby Lobby, and of course online if you’d like to get one. For my holes I used a punch size close to the size of my crochet hook (although you can go a little smaller with your holes since the hook can be used to widen them).

To begin crocheting into your leather, start off with a slipnot and make a loop, but leave it a little loose. Put your hook through a hole in the leather and pull the loop through to the other side.

See how leaving the loop loose allows the top of it to sit just along the edge of the leather? This is what we want for each loop pulled through the leather. Secure this first loop by making a chain. You have the start of your foundation row.

To continue your foundation row – ch 1, sc into the next hole (leaving your loop loose and pulling it’s height to the edge of the circle as shown), *ch 1, sc into next hole* repeat until you come to the end of your row and join with a slip stitch (sl st) into the chain at the top of your starting loop.

When you’re done with the row it should look like this.

Row 1: do not chain to start here (feel free to use a stitch marker here if it helps you), but instead begin with a sc in the ch you joined with, and continue by working one sc in each stitch around. I work these into the back loops only as it’s much easier and looks nice and tidy. When you get to the end of your row join with a sl st into your first sc. You should have 40 sc around total.

Rows 2-15: sc into stitch you joined with, sc in each stitch around, join with sl st into first sc.

There are several techniques around for changing colors in crochet. One issue with doing so when working stripes is having a jog at the seam, meaning the ends of the stripe don’t evenly match up. Planet June offers a couple solutions to this here, but feel free to try out other techniques as well and choose what you like best.

You may also want to change to a new color for several rows then change back to your original color. Don’t worry about cutting and fastening off your first color and rejoining with a new piece when you switch back to it, instead just carry the yarn behind your visible work. As you work your first sc over the top loops of the stitch you’re working into, hold your unused yarn beside those top loops and work your stitch around it as well. Do this only for your first sc of each row, and continue until you’re ready to switch back to that color. Then your yarn will be ready for you. Hopefully the picture above helps make that clear.

Carrying your yarn up this way also makes the inside look much neater.

When you finish your rows fasten off and weave in any ends using a darning needle.

pouch tutorial 12

Cut a piece of suede cord about 18 inches for you drawstring.

pouch tutorial 13

To figure out where to weave in your drawstring, you don’t have to be exact with this project. I like to pinch folds into the top of the pouch and work to make them roughly the same size.

pouch tutorial 14

Use a darning needle to weave in your lace. Again, you don’t have to be exact with this. Unless you want to, then go crazy! :)

pouch tutorial 15

Tie a little bow, and once you’re done it should look like this!

Hopefully that was fairly clear. If you have any questions don’t hesitate to ask me! Hope you all are having a wonderful day! Remember you are loved, and God bless!

Tutorial: Crochet Box Pleats Two Ways

crochet pleats tutorial 1

Several months ago I was searching online for a guide to making crochet box pleats, but all I found was guides for stitches that were more like gathered fabric than pleating. The closest I found, and it is a very great tutorial, was this post on crochet pleats from April Garwood of Banana Moon Studio. It goes along with a pattern of hers for a girls jumper that was published in Interweave Crochet, Winter 2010. It was very, very helpful and I’d recommend a look at it.

However, since there is a lack of tutorials for this crochet skill online where there are multiple guides for many others, I thought I’d try making a basic guide including two ways of making crochet box pleats. The first way is basically the same as Banana Moon Studio’s guide, while the second is different.

This post is quite long, so click through the jump to see the full post.

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